In a society set on slowing, or even reversing the effects of age in ourselves, we are lucky to experience the contrast of cheese that evolves beautifully with an intentional aging process. This process has been perfected as a blend of science and art; of microbes and methods.
Aged cheese represents a long history of cheesemaking traditions that vary in technique and flavor depending on location. Age also points to the care and craftsmanship leading up to the final product – a balance of flavor and texture, not possible without the passage of time. Incorporated into pastas, soups, pizzas, and more, aged cheese adds depth and pleasant surprise to these traditional dishes.
It’s also worth noting that the craftsmanship behind aged cheese plays a significant role in its value. From the meticulous work of the cheesemaker to the controlled environments needed for aging, each step requires time, skill, and resources. The longer a cheese is aged, the more care and attention it demands, leading to a product that’s rich in complexity and quality. When you pay for an aged cheese, you’re not just buying flavor—you’re supporting the dedication and artistry that goes into every bite.
So, what makes aged cheese so irresistible? The answers are abundant, and scattered across each cheese’s timeline.
The Basics of Cheese Aging
Affinage (comes from the French verb affiner, meaning “to refine”) is the process of aging cheese. This takes place in “cheese caves” or cave-like rooms dedicated to ripening cheese with a carefully controlled climate. The person taking care of the cheese and environment during the aging process is called an affineur. The affineur transforms fresh portions of curd into a myriad of cheeses through techniques like temperature control, rind washing, turning, ashing, and more.
Evidence of a cheese’s age is first found on the microbial and chemical levels. Enzymes within the cheese break down proteins into smaller peptides and amino acids, softening texture while strengthening flavor. The breakdown of proteins is what forms those crunchy little crystals in some of our shop favorites, like Jake’s Aged Gouda or Prairie Breeze cheddar. Mold can begin to grow naturally on the surface, or after being manually injected into the cheese, forming the striking veins found in blue varieties. Other factors like moisture loss and oxygen exposure help to concentrate the flavor and texture of the cheese, sometimes resulting in unique and funky aromas.
The affineur has many choices to make that will impact the final product, from what kind of wood or leaves the cheese is set upon, to how best manipulate the temperature and humidity of the aging location. The first decision an affineur will make is whether they want to ripen the cheese from the inside-out, or the outside-in.
Interior ripening lends itself to a smoother, softer cheese like swiss. With this method, the wheel is wrapped in wax or bandages to protect the surface from aging, while microbes compete for nutrients on the inside, creating the perfect environment for flavor to form. On the other hand, surface ripening gives special attention to the rind, enough to make its way into the body of the cheese with time. Rinds can be rubbed with many different ingredients to carefully introduce specific flavors, like a salt brine, alcohol-based wash, or herb wash.
How Flavor Develops Over Time
With so many unique factors going into a cheese’s age, an affineur must be patient and confident. They must wait (several years in some cases), and know when the cheese is finished based on final taste, texture, and appearance. Each stage in the aging process results in a different flavor profile and intensity.
The first stage is a fresh one, involving minimal fermentation and a high moisture content. Cheeses like Ricotta, Queso Fresco and Mascarpone move quickly from farm to fridge, usually taking less than two weeks to reach their full potential. The flavor profile for a cheese aged within the fresh stage is mild, slightly tangy, and milky with a subtle sweetness. These cheeses are best known for their clean, delicate flavor.
The second aging stage is the young stage, producing varieties like young cheddar, brie, and havarti. These cheeses will grow up to be soft or semi-soft, with a slightly elastic texture. Tanginess, mild nuttiness, and sometimes notes of butter are most common at this stage, taking anywhere from two weeks to three months. If mold has appeared or been added by this stage, earthy and mushroomy flavors can begin to grow as well. Even though these cheeses have been aged past the “fresh” stage, they remain approachable and pair well with fruit and light wine.
The third and final stage of aging is vast, ranging from three months to several years. During this time, cheese becomes harder, drier, and can develop protein crystals. The flavor profile of a well-aged cheese at its peak is richly umami, sharp, and slightly roasted or caramelized. At this age, certain cheeses, like blue varieties, develop strong earthy and spicy notes. Hook’s Five Year Aged Cheddar, and Pleasant Ridge Reserve (modeled after Comté) are some great examples of cheeses we carry in store that live in this stage.
How to Start Tasting (and Loving) Aged Cheese
What begins as a simple milk evolves into a complex, well-balanced, and flavorful cheese, but how do you know where to begin on your tasting journey? For those new to aged cheeses, consider experimenting with a range of cheeses to compare and contrast how time shapes texture and taste. A young, creamy Brie brings something entirely different to the table than a sharp, nutty Parmigiano-Reggiano. Tasting aged cheese alongside wine, honey, or aged meat can help you better decipher flavor notes, as the flavor is enhanced by these pairings.
Knowing where your cheese comes from, or even who is responsible for such a delicious hunk of dairy, can further your understanding of the aging process and final cheese. At Bougie’s, we place emphasis on the stories and methods behind our cheese, helping customers learn what to ask for, and why they’re asking for it.
We’d love to hear from the neighborhood about your favorite aged cheeses, or perhaps a cheese that has changed your perception of flavor somewhere along the aging process. After all, cheese is best paired with knowledge and understanding of its life!
Written by Hannah Tracy
